PRUNING TREES
Why Prune?
"Prune first for safety, second for health, and finally for aesthetics."
The three main reasons to prune trees:
Safety
Remove branches that could fall and cause injury or
property
damage, branches that interfere with lines
of sight on streets, sidewalks or driveways, and branches
that grow into overhead utility lines.
The easiest way to avoid these issues is to choose species
of trees that will not outgrow their available space.
Visit our garden centers to discuss your best options with
our knowledgeable nursery staff, or you can research
varieties online at www.siebenthaler.com and click on
the plant care box.
Health
Remove
any dead, diseased or insect-infested wood,
and remove crossing and rubbing branches.
Prune younger trees to encourage development of strong
structure and to reduce the likelihood of damage during
severe weather. Remove broken or damaged limbs to
encourage wound closure.
Aesthetics
Prune
to maintain the tree's natural form, or to stimulate
flower production, and pruning may even help add value
to your property.
When To Prune?
Evergreens are best pruned during their dormant season to minimize sap and resin
flow from the cut branches. Pruning evergreen trees involves cutting or breaking off
one half of the new candle growth. Minimize pruning of whole branches. Dead
branches can be removed any time of year.
Deciduous trees without flowers should be pruned in their dormant season (late fall
to early spring) to easily see the structure of the tree and to maximize wound
closure in the growing season after pruning.
Spring blooming trees should be pruned immediately after flowering; whereas, summer
or fall blooming trees should be pruned during their dormant season (late fall-winter).
Their flower buds will form on new twigs during the next growing season.
If unsure about pruning your particular species/varieties of trees, please contact
Siebenthaler’s for assistance.
Pruning Techniques
Proper cuts are made at a node, the point at which one branch attaches to another.
Here are the most common types of pruning:
Crown Thinning – Selectively remove branches to increase
light penetration and air movement throughout the crown.
Thinning helps develop the tree’s structure and form.
No more than ¼ of the living crown should be removed at
one time. Branches with strong U-shaped angles of
attachment should be retained. Branches with narrow
V-shaped angles of attachment should be removed.
(Note: Blue colored branches suggest thinning pattern)
Crown Raising – Branches from the bottom of the crown are
removed to provide accessibility underneath the canopy of the tree
for vehicles, pedestrians, buildings, or line of site. After pruning,
the trunk height should be one third the height of the crown.
(Note: Blue colored lower branches represent raising the crown)
Crown
Reduction – This method is most often used for trees that
have grown too large for their allotted space. This is a better
method than topping, because it retains the tree’s natural
appearance. It also allows for fewer pruning times and
minimizes stress on the tree. This should be used as a last resort
method; it often results in large wounds that could lead to decay.
Do not use this method on pyramidal-shaped trees,
rather consider replacing this tree with one that will not outgrow
its space. This technique should be done by a certified arborist.
(Note: Blue colored branches represent crown reduction.)
How to Make the Cut
Pruning cuts should be made so that only branch tissue is removed and stem tissue
is not damaged.
Pruning live branches – Look for the branch collar that grows from the stem tissue
at the underside of the base of the branch. On the upper surface, there is usually
a branch bark ridge that runs (more or less) parallel to the branch angle, along the
stem of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not damage either the ridge or the collar.
Begin the cut just outside the branch bark ridge and angle down away from the
stem of the tree. Avoid injuring the branch collar. Make the cut as close as possible
to the stem in the branch axil, but outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem tissue
is not injured and the wound can seal in the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far
from the stem leaving a branch stub, branch tissue usually dies and woundwood forms
from the stem tissue. This causes a delayed wound closure.
Always use sharp pruners so that you can make clean cuts without tearing the branch.
On branches that are too large for hand pruners, use a saw and support the branch
with one hand while the cuts are made. If a branch is too large to support with your
hand, make a 3-step pruning cut:
1. First cut is a shallow notch made
on the underside
of the branch, outside the branch collar.
2. Make the second cut outside the first cut
all the way through the branch, leaving a short stub.
3. Finally, cut the stub just
outside the branch bark ridge/collar.
Pruning dead branches – Similar to the live branch, although often easier because
you can see where the dead branch connects to the live tree. Make the pruning cut
outside the ring of woundwood tissue that has formed. Larger dead branches should
be cut using the 3-step method.
Drop Crotch Cuts – This type of cut should be made by a certified arborist.
Most crotch cuts involve branches that are too large to be supported with your hand.
Professionals follow these three steps:
1. Make a notch, well above the branch crotch, on the side of the stem away from the branch that will remain.
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch crotch, above the branch bark ridge and cut through the stem above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the branch bark ridge through the stem parallel to the branch bark ridge.
Harmful
Pruning Practices
Topping – The practice of pruning branches and stems at right
angles leaving long stubs. Often used for the ‘supposed’
purpose of reducing the height of a tree. Many times homeowners
have trees topped because they believe the tree is getting too
tall. This expensive practice actually stimulates rapid growth of
multiple weak branches. And the branches quickly get as tall or
even taller than the original height of the tree. A reputable tree
service will not even suggest this method!
Tipping – The practice of
cutting lateral
branches between nodes
to reduce crown width.
Bark Ripping - Occurs when the cut made
is not a clean cut and branch rips away from
main branch or trunk.
Flush Cuts – Cuts that originate inside the
branch bark ridge or collar causing injury
to stem tissue and eventually decay.
Stub Cuts – Cuts made too far outside the
branch bark ridge or branch collar that leave
branch tissue attached to the stem. These cuts
can delay wound closure and allow entry
for canker and decay.
Pruning Tools
Using the proper tool when pruning is essential for satisfactory pruning. Choosing
the right tool depends largely on the size of branch and the amount of pruning needed.
And always make sure the blades are sharp prior to making that first cut!
Here is a guideline for tools: Hand pruners are best for small branches
(less than 1"" diameter). Use lopping shears on branches up to 2-3/4"" diameter and a
small pruning saw on branches up to 3.5"" diameter. Chain saws should only be
used by someone who is qualified, because they are for cutting branches over
3.5" diameter, which are too large for one person to handle. Pole pruners are
good to use on those hard-to-reach branches that are less than 2"" diameter. If you
are using a pole pruner, beware of overhead utility lines. It is best to have a
qualified professional remove these branches.
Proper cleaning and sanitizing your tools regularly will help prevent the spread of
disease to other parts of the tree and to other trees. Pruning during the trees’ dormant
stage will greatly reduce the possibility of spreading disease. Sanitize the tool with
liquid household bleach, diluted 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. 1-2 minutes should be
enough soaking time. When finished using the tool, wash off with soap and water and
wipe dry to prevent corrosion to blades.
Treating Wounds
Tree sap, gums, and resins are the natural means by which trees combat invasion by
pathogens. Sap flow can be unsightly, but is not generally harmful.
Applying wound dressing is not recommended as it will not stop decay or cure
diseases. Oftentimes they may interfere with the protective benefits of tree gums and
resins, preventing the wound surfaces from closing as quickly as they might
if left alone to ‘Mother Nature’. The only exceptions are oak & elm trees. If these
varieties must be pruned during their growing season, it is a good
idea to apply wound dressing to help reduce the risk of disease.
Please call Siebenthaler's or use our website (www.siebenthaler.com) if you have any questions or concerns
about your landscape! We're here to help with all your landscaping needs.
Main Office South Garden Center Beavercreek Garden Center
3001 Catalpa Drive 6000 Far Hills Avenue 2074 Beaver Valley Road
Dayton, OH 45405 Centerville, OH 45459 Beavercreek, OH 45434
937-274-1154 937-434-1326 937-427-4110